CHRISTINE Hafermalz-Wheeler has been a jewellery designer for over four decades. With German craftsmanship, international minerals plus New Zealand spirit, she makes every piece of jewellery by her skilful hands. In her workshop, traditional tools such as saws, pliers, torches, solders and other jewellery-making apparatuses speak for her perseverance and dedication to craftsmanship. That’s why she always describes herself as a goldsmith and an artist, instead of a designer. Hong Kong Jewellery has talked to Wheeler for her unique design concept and fascinating jewellery collections.
HKJM: Hong Kong Jewellery
CH: Christine Hafermalz-Wheeler
HKJM: What is your design concept?
CH: I want to make timeless and wearable jewellery. During my jewellery making process, materials have always been the starting point. I would combine different gemstones with metals so as to create a harmonious world.
HKJM: We always see different unique gemstones set in your jewellery. What are your criteria in choosing them?
CH: I always choose gemstones in irregular shape instead of calibrated materials. If we make exclusive pieces for clients, it is sensible to use such one-off gemstones. In addition, gemstones speak to me. When I look at a tray with different kinds of gemstones, one or two pieces will stand out and demand my attention. The selection is done after I carefully look at all of their characteristics, including angles, inclusions, etc.
HKJM: What are your favourite gemstones or metals?
CH: Mexican opals have always been my favourite gemstones since 1972. The colour pattern and the translucency of the stones are as fascinating as a beautiful reef. Freshwater pearls and Keshi pearls are also my love. As for metals, I prefer 18-karat yellow gold due to its wonderful properties. Malleable and ductile properties mean that I can shape the metal in different ways and put irregular gemstones around it.
HKJM: Could you describe your jewellery production process?
CH: I use my hands and traditional tools to prepare all materials, such as mixing gold alloys, forging metals, setting stones. I also use the mouth-blown soldering torch to fuse the metals. These production processes undoubtedly bring me so much fun!
HKJM: Please share your signature collection with us.
CH: The signature collection is Double Ring. I have been expanding this collection for 40 years. Every ring is a great challenge and requires me a good understanding of ergonomics and physics to set a large gemstone on jewellery.
HKJM: Among all the awards and elections, which one is the most important in your career?
CH: When I was just 18, I wanted to open a jewellery shop. However, the concerned authorities forbade me from doing this because I was not a qualified apprentice without a Master’s degree. Fortunately, I was elected to the Verband Bildender Künstler, the Union of Professional Artists, exempting me from the above system.Thus, I could run my own business freely and develop my profession at a very early age.
HKJM: What is your goal in the goldsmith and jewellery industry?
CH: Always be true to myself. Yao An, director of the Capital Museum in China complimented me that my work was in “heavenly” level. I will be satisfied if I can raise it to above “earthy” level.
HKJM: What collection you are working on?
CH: My next collection will be dedicated to the German novelist Karl May. Though he had never been to the United States, he wrote a series of children’s books about the adventures of Winnetou, a native American hero. In my youth, they were all my essential readings and fired my imagination.
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