| Hong Kong Jewellery 香港珠寶
News & Highlight


  1. GIA Launches AGS Ideal Report
  2. RJC Appoints New Executive Director
  3. Rio Tinto Production Jumps After Diavik Buyout
  4. Charles Stanley To Retire From De Beers
  5. Tiffany Joins LVMH Watches And Jewellery Division
  6. End-Year Diamond Prices Decline, says RAPI
  7. GIA’s Paperless Journey Begins
  8. Vicenzaoro January Reimagines Fine Jewellery Designs
  9. De Beers Rough Sales Steady At Year End Final Sight
  10. Gemfields Emeralds Take Centre Stage in New Jewellery Collaboration
  11. A 303-carat Golden Canary Shines at Sotheby’s New York Sale
  12. Christie’s New York auction totalled nearly $59M
  13. Pantone’s Color of the Year 2023: Viva Magenta
  14. Christie’s Hong Kong Jewellery Auction Fetched $46M
  15. Gemfields’ 187,775-carat Emerald Cluster Sets Record Price
  16. Yellows Showed Highest Increase in Q3 Fancy-Colour Price Index
  17. GIA Joins Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
  18. David Yurman Features First Celebrity Ambassadors in Holiday Ad Campaign
  19. Gemfields To Auction 187,775-carat Emerald Cluste
  20. De Beers Announces Hollywood Star as First Global Ambassador
  21. Kering Q3 Jewellery Sales Remain Strong
  22. Rio Tinto Unveils First Argyle Brand Jewellery
  23. De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver to Step Down in Early 2023
  24. Price Decline Fuelling Diamond Trade Uncertainty
  25. ‘Williamson Pink Star’ Diamond Sold at New Auction Record
  26. Pandora Unveils First Ever Art Collaboration - Keith Haring X Pandora
  27. Further Growth in Hong Kong’s Luxury Retail Sales
  28. Pandora Unveils First Ever Art Collaboration - Keith Haring X Pandora
  29. Further Growth in Hong Kong’s Luxury Retail Sales
  30. Platinum Jewellery Sales Rise in Key Markets in Q2 2022, PGI says
  31. AGTA Announces New Board Members
  32. Fura Gems Discovers 101-carat Ruby
  33. Lightbox Sells Lower-Quality Lab-Grown Diamonds
  34. 160-Carat Rough Unearthed from Angola Mine
  35. GIA Found Synthetics, Simulant among Four ‘Natural’ Sapphires
  36. ‘De Beers Blue' Might Originate from Deep Earth, Says GIA
  37. New Chairman Elected at India’s GJEPC
  38. Tiffany Launches Its First All Gender Bangle Collection
  39. Pandora Launches Lab-grown Diamond Jewellery Collection in North America
  40. Gemfields Reports Record Revenues
  41. IIJS Premiere Sees Record Number Visitors
  42. Signet Acquires Blue Nile for $360M
  43. Hong Kong jewellery sales slide in H1
  44. Fancy Colour Diamond Price Index Rises
  45. The Potentially Largest Pink Diamond Found in 300 Years
  46. Kering Reports Strong First Half Jewellery Sale
  47. Vicenzaoro Back In September
  48. eBay Offers Fine Jewellery Authentication with GIA Partnership
  49. New Executive Director and Secretary General Appointed for Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
  50. VO Vintage Returns To Vicenzaoro September
  51. Sarine Partners With NGTC on Grading Reports In China
  52. Diamond Prices Slide Amid Economic Uncertainty
  53. De Beers, Botswana Sales Agreement Extended
  54. AWDC Appoints David Gotlib As New President
  55. IGI Debuts Online Learning Courses
  56. Swarovski Appoints First Non-Family CEO
  57. Kashmir Sapphire Ring Comes Out on Top at Bonhams
  58. WJA Foundation Launches New Scholarship for Women of Colour
  59. Blue Nile Merges with Mudrick for Its Second IPO
  60. RJC Launches ‘Gender Equality Toolkit’ at JCK Las Vegas
  61. GIA Reports to Go Digital by 2025
  62. Gemfields Achieved Highest Revenue at Emerald Auction
  63. DAMAC Group Now Owns de GRISOGONO
  64. GJEPC Proposes Lab-Grown Diamond Park in India
  65. Pandora’s New Crafting Facility in Vietnam Costs $100M
  66. Q1 Gold Jewellery Demand Soft, Says WGC
  67. Jewellery Buying Groups Formed New Global Alliance
  68. Singapore to Host Jewellery & Gem World 2022
  69. ‘Wonder Woman’ Gal Gadot Premiered in Tiffany’s 2022 High Jewellery Collection
  70. Christie’s to Auction ‘The Light of Africa’ for $18M in June
  71. New Board of Directors were elected to Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey
  72. Oroarezzo back with Première Competition
  73. ‘De Beers Blue’ auctions US$57.5M at Sotheby’s
  74. CTF launches Mother’s Day collection
  75. Jewelers of America Announces The 2022 CASE Award Winners
  76. De Beers: Diamond Businesses Staying Cautious About Business Expectations
  77. Synthetic Alexandrite Pioneer David Patterson Dies at 89
  79. Rebecca Foerster Appointed As President of Hearts On Fire
  80. US Steps Up Sanctions Against Alrosa
  81. PGI Study Findings: Consumers Have Different Interpretations of Sustainability
  82. Irving Wong Appointed as Pandora’s General Manager For China
  83. Rolex’s 6 New Watches Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
  84. Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery: Heteractis Ring
  85. Will Russian Diamond Ban Help Foster Lab-Grown Diamond Business?
  86. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  87. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  88. JEWELLERY GENEVA Takes Place between 30 March and 3 April 2022
  89. Christie’s Presents 228 carat White Dimond
  90. Gold Bar Integrity Programme to be Implemented
  92. Early Spring Fashion for Natural Diamonds
  93. Jennifer Garner Shines in De Beers Jewellers at the Premiere in New York
  94. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, “Cartier Women’s Initiative Impact Report”
  95. American Gem Trade Association Announces Partnership with JCK Show Again
  96. Chow Tai Fook and Canada's Mountain Province Diamonds Sign Supply Agreement
  97. Registration Is Open for 2022 JCK Show
  98. Alrosa Caught Up in U.S. Sanctions
  99. Tawhid Abdullah Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
  100. The Largest Blue Diamond Appears at Sotheby’s Auction
  101. Price Rise for Nearly 90% Of Fancy Colour Last Year
  102. Dickson Yewn’s Collectibles Given for Sotheby’s Charity Auction
  103. De Beers Boosts Production
  104. Watches & Wonders Geneva To Be Held In Hybrid Format
  105. Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai to Debut February
  106. Hong Kong Losing its Dominance as the World's Largest Watch Market
  107. Gift Guide for CNY
  108. Press Release: Sotheby’s Announces New Appointments To Luxury Team In ASsia
  109. Georg Jensen Becomes a Certified Member of RJC
  110. 555.55-carat Black Dimond Unveiled at Sotheby’s Auction
  111. GIA Appoints Anna Martin as SVP for Institute, Industry Relations
  112. Alrosa Boosts Direct Sales of Fancy Diamonds to Investors
  113. CIBJO General Assembly postponed to March 17 and 18, 2022
  114. 7,525 Carat Emerald Discovered
  115. Karl Lagerfeld Jewellery Collections to Shine
  116. Diamonds Travel To The Space
  117. Vicenzaoro January postponed to March
  118. America’s Youngest Jeweller Starts Business via Instagram
  119. Concerns over conflict gold arise again
  120. The 1st International Gemstone & Diamond Trade Summit Wraps Up in Macao
  121. The Knot’s Study:Over 30% of Respondents Say Natural Diamond Unimportant
  122. Pantone’s 2022 Colour of the Year: Very Peri
  123. Phillips Jewellery Auctions Fetch over HK$181 Million
  124. The World’s First Pure Gold Castle of Magical Dreams by CHOW TAI FOOK
  125. Jewellery Sales Jumped 78% During the Thanksgiving Holiday
  126. Gem Auctions DMCC’s Debut Auction Successful
  127. Cartier’s Christmas Tree Lights Up the City with Love and Hope
  128. Rediscovering Lacloche in Hong Kong
  129. Blue diamonds to lead Christie’s HK autumn sale
  130. JMA show to stage next Thursday
  131. HK auction to help Cambodian kids
  132. Basel fair cancelled again
  133. HKDI show to continue in Dec
  134. Gemfields sells 7,500-carat emerald for good
  135. Sustainability is key to diamond purchases, a report says
  136. Christie’s Geneva jewellery sale fetches CHF53.7m
  137. Cibjo forms working group on fei cui standards
  138. Only Watch raises CHF30m for DMD research


  1. US market unfolds changes and potential
  2. The queen of gems, the gem of queens
  3. Classics return


  • Dream Catcher ring, Buddha Mama
  • Bangle, Buddha Mama
  • Connessione ring, Diamonds by Kathy Ireland
  • Pendant, William Henry
  • Earrings, Lord Jewelry
  • Bangle, ALOR
  • Ring, ALOR
  • Three-stone vintage-inspired ring, Noam Carver

US market unfolds changes and potential

The jewellery week in Las Vegas is often considered the weathervane of the US jewellery market. The low attendance of the 2017 edition reassures us challenges and uncertainties are lingering. Industry practitioners interviewed by Hong Kong Jewellery, nevertheless, look forward to the future with hope and opportunities amidst drastic changes.

Market changes

The US market has changed at a rapid pace over the last five years. Besides famous brands, consumers are also very interested in unique, high quality designs for daily wear, said Ori Zemer, principal of ALOR, California-based fine jewellery and watch brand. Well-known for its cable designs, the company has invented tooling that allows them to set trends with unique look and styling. “For us, bangles have always been the strongest category. With the use of cable it is very easy to stack, mix and match and to be universally worn with any outfit. Our new chokers give a youthful and on-trend look that can be worn by any age,” Zemer revealed.

Technological and communication development have made a vast amount of information available to end-consumers. Today’s customers have more options to choose from, but with less loyalty towards individual brands or designers. Although there are various touch points between jewellers and customers such as trade fairs, Zemer stated that they have shifted to promote products and communicate with clients via the digital world, and recorded a huge growth in online sales this year. “If we do not adjust then the customers will go somewhere else…Our social media accounts explore the entire world of ALOR and allow our customers to take the ride with us through our designs and creative processes,” he added.

Los Angeles jeweller Lord Jewelry is specialised in handcrafted jewellery for connoisseurs who value fine art and high fashion. Designer Sinork Agdere observed a rise of demand for one-of-a-kind jewellery in the US market. He also acknowledged the advantages of savvy jewellers’ omni-channel strategies for sharing information, developing brand identity, and building better customer relationships. “Online shopping has become very popular and it is one of the main factors that have driven market change,” he said.

Miami-based Buddha Mama offers handmade jewellery inspired by Buddhism and Eastern traditions. Co-designer Dakota Badía noted that unlike previous years, the market is picking up with reviving buying sentiment and the company has experienced sales growth this year. Regarding the effectiveness of their online and social media presence, she said it is “constant and instant gratification”. Everything online is accessible 24/7, and social media has helped with brand awareness and attracted more clients.

When consumers become more knowledgeable and better-educated, consequently they prefer better products at better price points. “Price has become a driving factor. Retailers are squeezing manufacturers and wholesalers for better margins and lower MSRP (manufacturer suggested retail price)”. All those create subpar products in the market, according to Ori Zemer.

Canadian bridal jewellery designer Noam Carver holds the same view. He commented: “Creating price-sensitive products is crucial; however, they deserve as much attention as high price-point items. Design and quality should not be sacrificed, if they are, you won’t be around when the market picks up and higher price points are in demand.” He believes that the resurgence of fashion jewellery and low price-point collections has greatly affected the market in general in recent years. In regards to the spending habits of consumers nowadays, he sensed that they are more focused on disposable fashion jewellery and want fresh looks that can be switched up quickly.

In partnership with Paul Raps New York, Taly Diamonds and Krainz Creations and inspired and mentored by Elizabeth Taylor, US fashion icon and supermodel Kathy Ireland debuted her new line of ethically-sourced, handmade jewellery Diamonds by Kathy Ireland during Luxury 2017. The brand offers a 65-piece collection including engagement rings, wedding bands, patent-pending earrings, necklaces and bracelets, at US$2,000 entry price point.

Ireland told Hong Kong Jewellery that while diamond jewellery has generated ongoing strength in 2017, the price war continues. “You simply cannot win the war by lowering prices every day. Somewhere, someone will always sell for less. Please don’t let it be you”. She thinks that the biggest change in the current industry is that branded jewellers are winning the market share. “Without a brand, you cannot have a point of difference. No one will pay more for something they perceive to be generic,” she stated.

Men’s jewellery is one of the fastest growing market segments in recent years in the fine jewellery industry, mainly because of the increase of male self-purchasers. William Henry is a fine functional jewellery brand for men with a broad network of over 500 independent retailers in the United States and abroad. Company CEO Dave Boechel revealed that many jewellers have realised that selling men’s jewellery is an effective way to grow their business without detracting revenue from their current product categories. The company continues to grow in importance and sales in 2017. Regarding customer preferences, over 80 percent of their sales are men’s bracelets, which are an easier and more customary choice for US customers.

Almost every player in the jewellery industry is investing and improving the quality and flexibility of their production chain and the online experience they offer to their clients, said Boechel. He thinks that although the market was tough in 2016 due to the slowdown in consumption ahead of the presidential election, main drivers of luxury remain the same, namely design, craftsmanship, intrinsic value and exceptional customer services. “The key is to assure these sales drivers are always effectively-communicated,” he emphasised.

The only constant – bridal jewellery

As De Beers pointed out in its Diamond Insight report published in June 2017, the bridal sector constitutes 28 percent of the US jewellery market, showing that this traditional area is still the backbone of the industry. During the market recovery, bridal jewellery remains the only constant category that defies market trends and fluctuations, becoming a primary growth engine.

This year has seen an incredible growth for Noam Carver as the brand places emphasis on brand building, designs and customer services. Brand owner Noam Carver stressed that the US bridal jewellery market continues strong growth with a focus on branded designer collections that tell stories. “Bridal jewellery is a perennial product, a must-have. A strong market will contribute to higher ticket purchases and a weak market will result in lower ticket purchases. Either situation, bridal is still being purchased,” he noted.

Millennials account for one of the largest generations in history, as they move into prime spending years; an increase in overall bridal jewellery consumption will be seen, Carver projects. Millennials are the target consumer group of Diamonds by Kathy Ireland. According to Kathy Ireland, the brand is disruptive by offering affordable bridal jewellery in high quality, plus world-class craftsmanship and after-sale services. She believes that bridal jewellery is a profit-margin driver and millennials will “absolutely make bridal jewellery purchases”.

ALOR launched its bridal line in May 2017 with two collections – ALOR Down The Aisle and ALOR Ecoearth, incorporating the brand’s cable DNA. While the former utilises mined diamonds, the later applies “eco-friendly and sustainable” synthetic diamonds. With warm reception of their bridal collections, Ori Zemer said that the US society loves weddings, which is a tradition that has been around for thousands of years. “As such, bridal jewellery market will continue to thrive”.

Opportunities and trends

“Direct-to-consumer is the biggest opportunity. The continued development of the ease of purchasing online makes it much easier for end-consumers,” said Ori Zemer. “Technology is moving at a fast pace, practitioners must set up a digital strategy to be able to capitalise on the opportunity.” Regarding future trends, he forecasts that demand for chokers will continue and come on stronger for 2018. Long earrings, especially oversized hoop earrings for mix and match, statement necklaces with oversized symbols will be in vogue.

Lord Jewellery’s Sinork Agdere believes that high quality products always stand out from the crowd. In the near future, he foresees that branded jewellery will claim a higher share of the market. “The US market is strong and robust, there are ups and downs however its resilience is what makes it so special,” said Noam Carver. “There is always room for another competitor but the competition is fierce and unforgiving.” He has confidence in the brands that are willing to adapt to the current market trends.

As customers are increasingly discriminating, practitioners cannot do exactly what they did 20 or even five years ago and expect grow, said Dave Boeckel of William Henry. While men’s jewellery still has not yet been exploited in the United States, he expects to see a growing number of players and products in the category in 2018.

The US jewellery market is unlimited if change is embraced and people stop resisting the reality that we have a younger customer, says Kathy Ireland. As Elizabeth Taylor often said, “something wonderful is about to happen”, Ireland feels that is true for the US market.

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