merging independent designers from mainland China have attracted international attention in recent years. Born in mainland China, those designers are imbued with entrepreneurship and launched their own brand after gained study and working experience overseas. Their designs showcase a unique fusion of western craftsmanship and eastern aesthetics.
Besides, the increasingly affluent population and the growing pursuit of aestheticism in mainland China pushed the customised jewellery market to a new height. For independent designers, they expand business channels domestically and promote home-grown designs abroad by collaborating with overseas jewellers or through cross-industry cooperation. Hong Kong Jewellery interviewed several independent designers in mainland China to see the potential of high-end customised jewellery market in the future.
Designer Zhang Fan gained her master degree in jewellery design of Central Academy of Fine Arts, China and lectured in A.F.E.D.A.P Paris. She experiments on traditional Chinese royal craft blending with contemporary art. According to her, art jewellery in China has been rejuvenated from sophisticated fabrication to simplicity and originality, highlighting oriental philosophy and modern humanism. She said: “I attract people who appreciate my design. As an artist and creator, I choose to speak for myself instead of being manipulated by their request.”
She launched her own brand Fann Zhang Art Jewellery in 2009 and has been promoting her designs through cooperation with art galleries in mainland China and Europe, or with luxury brands. She noted: “My clients are mostly jewellery collectors in mainland China. Some of them have overseas living experience. Others are from France, the United States and Northern Europe who appreciate Chinese culture.”
From September to November 2014, Zhang held her solo exhibition themed ’Good As Gold’ in Beijing, showcasing the gold mesh weaving technique in creating modern art jewellery. “This is an era of internationalisation. Individual information reaches to the rest of the world at high speed. Jewellery with culture and personal distinction is gaining momentum. The customised art jewellery market is taking shape. We believe there will be more diversified designs in the future. Creativity, private exhibitions, academic exchange, seminars and consumer education will be efficient tools for art jewellery promotion,” she added.
Jewellery designer Wang Kun established Ivan Wang Jewellery Studio in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province in 2005 after he graduated from Ontario College of Art & Design University and worked for a Canadian jewellery company. According to him, it will be an important period for the development of customised jewellery in China in the next five years, as personalised jewellery has gained growing demand and recognition.
Wang uses different kinds of materials for his jewellery. He said: “I never set limitations for the materials I use. My designs showcase the Chinese culture with western influence,” he added.
Winning the appreciation by clients from mainland and abroad, he said: “They highly appreciate art and pursue high quality and craftsmanship. They involve in the creation by giving suggestions and ideas.” In terms of overseas market exploration, he noted: “We have collaborative projects with foreign companies and sales agents. We are planning to produce 30 art jewellery pieces each year in the near future.”
For designer Wang Kaifang, cross-industry cooperation has brought new inspiration to his architectural design. He innovates modern conceptual jewellery by using 3D printing technology. In the Guangzhou Design Week 2014, he showcased his newly launched Wind collection at the Design in China + Made in Italy, Sino-Italy jewelry Design and Process Exchange. This is a 24-karat gold collection made by 3D printer.
He explained: “The Wind design interprets the Zen Buddhism philosophy in the east. Through simulating the wind tunnel test, the design is like a breeze in your hairs lingering around your arms.” The Wind collection is originated from Wang’s digital sculpture One Square Metre’s Wind. He said that the integration of art, design, science and philosophy would bring out unique and marvellous creations.
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