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News

  1. Lab-Grown Diamond Symposium to Take Place in Dubai
  2. JCK Industry Fund Announces 2023 Grant Recipients
  3. GIA Announces Jewellery Design Award Winner
  4. Hong Kong’s Luxury Retail Sales See Highest Rise in Three Years
  5. Chow Tai Fook Announces First Chief Operating Officer
  6. HKTDC Twin Shows Signal Hong Kong Comeback
  7. De Beers Profit Rises in 2022
  8. Rio Tinto Invests $40M in Diavik’s Underground Mining
  9. Gübelin Gem Lab Taps AI For Coloured Gemstone Grading
  10. Vicenzaoro January Exceeds Expectations With Record Attendance
  11. Fancy-coloured Diamonds Outperform Main Markets in 2022, says FCRF
  12. Gucci To Receive Gem Award From JA
  13. Gold Demand In 2022 Soars to A New Decade High, Says WGC
  14. GIA Launches AGS Ideal Report
  15. RJC Appoints New Executive Director
  16. Rio Tinto Production Jumps After Diavik Buyout
  17. Charles Stanley To Retire From De Beers
  18. Tiffany Joins LVMH Watches And Jewellery Division
  19. End-Year Diamond Prices Decline, says RAPI
  20. GIA’s Paperless Journey Begins
  21. Vicenzaoro January Reimagines Fine Jewellery Designs
  22. Gen-Zers favour personalisation over popularity
  23. De Beers Rough Sales Steady At Year End Final Sight
  24. Gemfields Emeralds Take Centre Stage in New Jewellery Collaboration
  25. A 303-carat Golden Canary Shines at Sotheby’s New York Sale
  26. Christie’s New York auction totalled nearly $59M
  27. Pantone’s Color of the Year 2023: Viva Magenta
  28. Christie’s Hong Kong Jewellery Auction Fetched $46M
  29. Gemfields’ 187,775-carat Emerald Cluster Sets Record Price
  30. Yellows Showed Highest Increase in Q3 Fancy-Colour Price Index
  31. GIA Joins Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
  32. David Yurman Features First Celebrity Ambassadors in Holiday Ad Campaign
  33. Gemfields To Auction 187,775-carat Emerald Cluste
  34. De Beers Announces Hollywood Star as First Global Ambassador
  35. Kering Q3 Jewellery Sales Remain Strong
  36. Rio Tinto Unveils First Argyle Brand Jewellery
  37. De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver to Step Down in Early 2023
  38. Price Decline Fuelling Diamond Trade Uncertainty
  39. ‘Williamson Pink Star’ Diamond Sold at New Auction Record
  40. Pandora Unveils First Ever Art Collaboration - Keith Haring X Pandora
  41. Further Growth in Hong Kong’s Luxury Retail Sales
  42. Pandora Unveils First Ever Art Collaboration - Keith Haring X Pandora
  43. Further Growth in Hong Kong’s Luxury Retail Sales
  44. Platinum Jewellery Sales Rise in Key Markets in Q2 2022, PGI says
  45. AGTA Announces New Board Members
  46. Fura Gems Discovers 101-carat Ruby
  47. Lightbox Sells Lower-Quality Lab-Grown Diamonds
  48. 160-Carat Rough Unearthed from Angola Mine
  49. GIA Found Synthetics, Simulant among Four ‘Natural’ Sapphires
  50. ‘De Beers Blue' Might Originate from Deep Earth, Says GIA
  51. New Chairman Elected at India’s GJEPC
  52. Tiffany Launches Its First All Gender Bangle Collection
  53. Pandora Launches Lab-grown Diamond Jewellery Collection in North America
  54. Gemfields Reports Record Revenues
  55. IIJS Premiere Sees Record Number Visitors
  56. Signet Acquires Blue Nile for $360M
  57. Hong Kong jewellery sales slide in H1
  58. Fancy Colour Diamond Price Index Rises
  59. The Potentially Largest Pink Diamond Found in 300 Years
  60. Kering Reports Strong First Half Jewellery Sale
  61. Vicenzaoro Back In September
  62. eBay Offers Fine Jewellery Authentication with GIA Partnership
  63. New Executive Director and Secretary General Appointed for Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
  64. VO Vintage Returns To Vicenzaoro September
  65. Sarine Partners With NGTC on Grading Reports In China
  66. Diamond Prices Slide Amid Economic Uncertainty
  67. De Beers, Botswana Sales Agreement Extended
  68. AWDC Appoints David Gotlib As New President
  69. IGI Debuts Online Learning Courses
  70. Swarovski Appoints First Non-Family CEO
  71. Kashmir Sapphire Ring Comes Out on Top at Bonhams
  72. WJA Foundation Launches New Scholarship for Women of Colour
  73. Blue Nile Merges with Mudrick for Its Second IPO
  74. RJC Launches ‘Gender Equality Toolkit’ at JCK Las Vegas
  75. GIA Reports to Go Digital by 2025
  76. Gemfields Achieved Highest Revenue at Emerald Auction
  77. DAMAC Group Now Owns de GRISOGONO
  78. GJEPC Proposes Lab-Grown Diamond Park in India
  79. Pandora’s New Crafting Facility in Vietnam Costs $100M
  80. Q1 Gold Jewellery Demand Soft, Says WGC
  81. Jewellery Buying Groups Formed New Global Alliance
  82. Singapore to Host Jewellery & Gem World 2022
  83. ‘Wonder Woman’ Gal Gadot Premiered in Tiffany’s 2022 High Jewellery Collection
  84. Christie’s to Auction ‘The Light of Africa’ for $18M in June
  85. New Board of Directors were elected to Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey
  86. Oroarezzo back with Première Competition
  87. ‘De Beers Blue’ auctions US$57.5M at Sotheby’s
  88. CTF launches Mother’s Day collection
  89. Jewelers of America Announces The 2022 CASE Award Winners
  90. De Beers: Diamond Businesses Staying Cautious About Business Expectations
  91. Synthetic Alexandrite Pioneer David Patterson Dies at 89
  92. 205 CARAT FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS | 11 MAY 2022
  93. Rebecca Foerster Appointed As President of Hearts On Fire
  94. US Steps Up Sanctions Against Alrosa
  95. PGI Study Findings: Consumers Have Different Interpretations of Sustainability
  96. Irving Wong Appointed as Pandora’s General Manager For China
  97. Rolex’s 6 New Watches Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
  98. Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery: Heteractis Ring
  99. Will Russian Diamond Ban Help Foster Lab-Grown Diamond Business?
  100. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  101. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  102. JEWELLERY GENEVA Takes Place between 30 March and 3 April 2022
  103. Christie’s Presents 228 carat White Dimond
  104. Gold Bar Integrity Programme to be Implemented
  105. Press Release: BONHAMS ANNOUNCES ACQUISITION OF BRUUN RASMUSSEN AUCTIONEERS – DENMARK’S LEADING AUCT
  106. Early Spring Fashion for Natural Diamonds
  107. Jennifer Garner Shines in De Beers Jewellers at the Premiere in New York
  108. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, “Cartier Women’s Initiative Impact Report”
  109. American Gem Trade Association Announces Partnership with JCK Show Again
  110. Chow Tai Fook and Canada's Mountain Province Diamonds Sign Supply Agreement
  111. Registration Is Open for 2022 JCK Show
  112. Alrosa Caught Up in U.S. Sanctions
  113. Tawhid Abdullah Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
  114. The Largest Blue Diamond Appears at Sotheby’s Auction
  115. Price Rise for Nearly 90% Of Fancy Colour Last Year
  116. Dickson Yewn’s Collectibles Given for Sotheby’s Charity Auction
  117. De Beers Boosts Production
  118. Watches & Wonders Geneva To Be Held In Hybrid Format
  119. Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai to Debut February
  120. Hong Kong Losing its Dominance as the World's Largest Watch Market
  121. Gift Guide for CNY
  122. Press Release: Sotheby’s Announces New Appointments To Luxury Team In ASsia
  123. Georg Jensen Becomes a Certified Member of RJC
  124. 555.55-carat Black Dimond Unveiled at Sotheby’s Auction
  125. GIA Appoints Anna Martin as SVP for Institute, Industry Relations
  126. Alrosa Boosts Direct Sales of Fancy Diamonds to Investors
  127. CIBJO General Assembly postponed to March 17 and 18, 2022
  128. 7,525 Carat Emerald Discovered
  129. Karl Lagerfeld Jewellery Collections to Shine
  130. Diamonds Travel To The Space
  131. Vicenzaoro January postponed to March
  132. America’s Youngest Jeweller Starts Business via Instagram
  133. Concerns over conflict gold arise again
  134. The 1st International Gemstone & Diamond Trade Summit Wraps Up in Macao
  135. The Knot’s Study:Over 30% of Respondents Say Natural Diamond Unimportant
  136. Pantone’s 2022 Colour of the Year: Very Peri
  137. Phillips Jewellery Auctions Fetch over HK$181 Million
  138. The World’s First Pure Gold Castle of Magical Dreams by CHOW TAI FOOK
  139. Jewellery Sales Jumped 78% During the Thanksgiving Holiday
  140. Gem Auctions DMCC’s Debut Auction Successful
  141. Cartier’s Christmas Tree Lights Up the City with Love and Hope
  142. Rediscovering Lacloche in Hong Kong
  143. Blue diamonds to lead Christie’s HK autumn sale
  144. JMA show to stage next Thursday
  145. HK auction to help Cambodian kids
  146. Basel fair cancelled again
  147. HKDI show to continue in Dec
  148. Gemfields sells 7,500-carat emerald for good
  149. Sustainability is key to diamond purchases, a report says
  150. Christie’s Geneva jewellery sale fetches CHF53.7m
  151. Cibjo forms working group on fei cui standards
  152. Only Watch raises CHF30m for DMD research
Read More...


HIGHLIGHT

  1. US market unfolds changes and potential
  2. The queen of gems, the gem of queens
  3. Classics return

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  • Pilz AY, founder of Pilz Schmuck
  • Window Grille necklace
  • Electronic Component pendant earrings
  • Electronic Component earrings with DIP switch
  • Travel of Light brooch
  • Travel of Light necklace
  • Optical Fibre brooch
  • Frozen Memory necklace features an organic rock crystal

Wearable art that lasts

November 2021

 

Loupe designers-in-residence series Loupe

 

A silver ring embedded with a circuit board in vibrant colours has changed Pilz Ay’s perception of jewellery. The unorthodox accessory she found in a flea market in Milan has enlightened her to introduce contemporary jewellery to express herself and engage people with storytelling designs that inspire and last.

An eccentric option in traditional jewellery markets where lavish gem-set jewels prevail, contemporary jewellery liberates itself from the obduracy of precious gemstones and metals. It takes a flexible approach to the choice of materials, giving the designer more possibilities to conceptualise ideas and deliver the message.

Pilz Ay started her own brand Pilz Schmuck in 2005 with the first collection paying tribute to the amazing world of electronics. Her fondness for small electronic parts seems to be inborn. “When I was young, I used to pay frequent visits to stores selling hardware, electronic and machine parts. The bright colours and unusual shapes of the small objects were just fascinating. And then I started collecting them,” the Hong Kong designer said.

Jewellery inspired by her favourite collectables was a mere concept until she met the brother of a friend of hers. “He was a self-taught craftsman who worked as an illustrator at a jewellery firm. We soon became business partners and developed our own designs.” She went solo and established Pilz Schmuck later on.

To preserve the essence and beauty of the electronic parts, she keeps them in their original form as much as possible by setting them in sterling silver with minimal design to underline the uniqueness of the centrepiece. For the Electronic Component collection, the designer has turned e-waste into delightful jewellery that connects with people again with an upcycled role.

Some pieces from the collection feature a dual in-line package swich which enhances interaction with the wearers. “Listening to the monotoned clicking sound of the switch is healing. It provides the wearer with a temporary getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life,” Ay said.

Another line of silver jewellery with LEDs comes as a perfect example of the designer’s passion for geometric and architectural forms, and her experimental spirit. As for the Travel of Light necklace, a simple circular chord with a cube or disc with an LED element is all it takes to evince the quality of having less is more.

Always in search of more significance for her designs, Pilz AY has created the Window Grille collection, some with LEDs, inspired by the window grilles of old tenement buildings in Hong Kong. “Whenever there are people behind the window grilles, the light is always on,” the designer explains the relationship between the two elements. It reminds us of the good old days when people were packed in a tiny yet cosy and warm flat. It also advocates the co-existence of old and new buildings in the city.

Fine jewellery is more for celebration and meant for passing down from generation to generation. When it comes to contemporary jewellery, however, it allows us to express our emotions in a much relaxing and personal way.

“Contemporary jewellery is a mobile sculpture and wearable art connecting the designer with the wearers and the environment. It is worn casually, alone or stacked, regardless of outfits and emotion,” she said.

The organic rock crystal rough set in the Frozen Memory collection fully exemplifies the designer’s aesthetic in instinctive rawness.

Observation is key to keeping her creative vibe alive. “While walking or sitting, I am always on the look out for interesting things. I read and travel a lot. And I spend time with exhibitions and shows of different nature,” said she.

Her constant quest for new knowledge and inspirations had motivated her to enrol at Loupe’s design residency programme started July 2020 which brought her to a whole new world of craftsmanship and goldsmithing. Also memorable for her was the rewarding experience gained from hosting workshops for the public.

“Knowing is one thing; teaching is another. We were required to hold six jewellery-making workshops for the public. Teaching was a totally new area for me. Although it came as a huge challenge, I treasured the opportunity a lot. Besides ensuring the participants finished the task in four hours, I deliberately taught them a bit more about craftsmanship in a hope to lift their horizons towards a deeper understanding and appreciation of contemporary jewellery.”

A keen advocate of contemporary jewellery, Pilz AY is a regular of local and overseas jewellery and wearable art expositions and events, including a solo exhibition, and several touring shows in Hong Kong, Australia, Spain and Taiwan.

Completing the jewellery and metalwork course with Sheffield Hallam University tops her agenda. Looking ahead, she aspires to enhance the digital presence of Pilz Schmuck while securing more physical interaction opportunities with customers. (Photo courtesy: Pilz Schmuck)

 

         

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