| Hong Kong Jewellery 香港珠寶
Search
News & Highlight

News

  1. Q1 Gold Jewellery Demand Soft, Says WGC
  2. Jewellery Buying Groups Formed New Global Alliance
  3. Singapore to Host Jewellery & Gem World 2022
  4. ‘Wonder Woman’ Gal Gadot Premiered in Tiffany’s 2022 High Jewellery Collection
  5. Christie’s to Auction ‘The Light of Africa’ for $18M in June
  6. New Board of Directors were elected to Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey
  7. Oroarezzo back with Première Competition
  8. ‘De Beers Blue’ auctions US$57.5M at Sotheby’s
  9. CTF launches Mother’s Day collection
  10. Jewelers of America Announces The 2022 CASE Award Winners
  11. De Beers: Diamond Businesses Staying Cautious About Business Expectations
  12. Synthetic Alexandrite Pioneer David Patterson Dies at 89
  13. 205 CARAT FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS | 11 MAY 2022
  14. Rebecca Foerster Appointed As President of Hearts On Fire
  15. US Steps Up Sanctions Against Alrosa
  16. PGI Study Findings: Consumers Have Different Interpretations of Sustainability
  17. Irving Wong Appointed as Pandora’s General Manager For China
  18. Rolex’s 6 New Watches Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
  19. Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery: Heteractis Ring
  20. Will Russian Diamond Ban Help Foster Lab-Grown Diamond Business?
  21. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  22. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  23. JEWELLERY GENEVA Takes Place between 30 March and 3 April 2022
  24. Christie’s Presents 228 carat White Dimond
  25. Gold Bar Integrity Programme to be Implemented
  26. Press Release: BONHAMS ANNOUNCES ACQUISITION OF BRUUN RASMUSSEN AUCTIONEERS – DENMARK’S LEADING AUCT
  27. Early Spring Fashion for Natural Diamonds
  28. Jennifer Garner Shines in De Beers Jewellers at the Premiere in New York
  29. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, “Cartier Women’s Initiative Impact Report”
  30. American Gem Trade Association Announces Partnership with JCK Show Again
  31. Chow Tai Fook and Canada's Mountain Province Diamonds Sign Supply Agreement
  32. Registration Is Open for 2022 JCK Show
  33. Alrosa Caught Up in U.S. Sanctions
  34. Tawhid Abdullah Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
  35. The Largest Blue Diamond Appears at Sotheby’s Auction
  36. Price Rise for Nearly 90% Of Fancy Colour Last Year
  37. Dickson Yewn’s Collectibles Given for Sotheby’s Charity Auction
  38. De Beers Boosts Production
  39. Watches & Wonders Geneva To Be Held In Hybrid Format
  40. Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai to Debut February
  41. Hong Kong Losing its Dominance as the World's Largest Watch Market
  42. Gift Guide for CNY
  43. Press Release: Sotheby’s Announces New Appointments To Luxury Team In ASsia
  44. Georg Jensen Becomes a Certified Member of RJC
  45. 555.55-carat Black Dimond Unveiled at Sotheby’s Auction
  46. GIA Appoints Anna Martin as SVP for Institute, Industry Relations
  47. Alrosa Boosts Direct Sales of Fancy Diamonds to Investors
  48. CIBJO General Assembly postponed to March 17 and 18, 2022
  49. 7,525 Carat Emerald Discovered
  50. Karl Lagerfeld Jewellery Collections to Shine
  51. Diamonds Travel To The Space
  52. Vicenzaoro January postponed to March
  53. America’s Youngest Jeweller Starts Business via Instagram
  54. Concerns over conflict gold arise again
  55. The 1st International Gemstone & Diamond Trade Summit Wraps Up in Macao
  56. The Knot’s Study:Over 30% of Respondents Say Natural Diamond Unimportant
  57. Pantone’s 2022 Colour of the Year: Very Peri
  58. Phillips Jewellery Auctions Fetch over HK$181 Million
  59. The World’s First Pure Gold Castle of Magical Dreams by CHOW TAI FOOK
  60. Jewellery Sales Jumped 78% During the Thanksgiving Holiday
  61. Gem Auctions DMCC’s Debut Auction Successful
  62. Cartier’s Christmas Tree Lights Up the City with Love and Hope
  63. Rediscovering Lacloche in Hong Kong
  64. Blue diamonds to lead Christie’s HK autumn sale
  65. JMA show to stage next Thursday
  66. HK auction to help Cambodian kids
  67. Basel fair cancelled again
  68. HKDI show to continue in Dec
  69. Gemfields sells 7,500-carat emerald for good
  70. Sustainability is key to diamond purchases, a report says
  71. Christie’s Geneva jewellery sale fetches CHF53.7m
  72. Cibjo forms working group on fei cui standards
  73. Only Watch raises CHF30m for DMD research
Read More...


HIGHLIGHT

  1. US market unfolds changes and potential
  2. The queen of gems, the gem of queens
  3. Classics return

Advertisement

  • Floral Fingertip ring, the winning piece of the first runner-up in the open group (finished jewellery): retail price at or over US$10,000 at the Hong Kong Fei Cui Design Biennial Contest
  • The titanium wire setting flower cluster accounts for 60 percent of the setting technique of the ring
  • The thickness of titanium wire depends on the size of gemstone’s girdle. Tsai said the thinnest titanium wire he has ever developed is 0.35mm wide.
  • Gemstone damaged by laser welding.
  • Titanium wire polishing process
  • Anthurium in Blue brooch

Titanium frame of mind

written by Colton Sun

Titanium was introduced to Taiwanese jewellery designer Tsai An-ho when he tried to answer an inquiry from his student 16 years ago. The vast range of colours that titanium can achieve with electrochemical machining aroused his interest to embark on a two-year exploration of titanium which began his voyage to titanium jewellery making. He is the first designer in Taiwan to ingeniously apply this aerospace metal to jewellery. His works were hammered at Sotheby's Hong Kong jewellery auctions in 2010 and 2012.

 

His Floral Fingertip ring won the first runner-up in the open group (finished jewellery): retail price at or over US$10,000 at the Hong Kong Fei Cui Design Biennial Contest organised by the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association (HKJJA) in 2019. Tsai commented: “The flower cluster encircling the fei cui centre stone is my first attempt at titanium wire setting, which accounts for 60 percent of the setting technique of the ring. I am an artisan who strives for breakthroughs in craftsmanship. It is a blockbuster for a novelty and motivates me to challenge the limits of craftsmanship in the coming years.”

 

With a Mohs hardness of six, titanium is harder than traditional metal alloys for jewellery making. Gold has a Mohs hardness of 2.5 to three for instance. Titanium wire setting technique is a type of bezel setting. The thickness of titanium wire depends on the size of the gemstone’s girdle. Gemstones can be arranged without restraint from the mounting, just like the “flower cluster” of Floral Fingertip ring. 

 

When sharing his artisan spirit on crafting titanium wire jewellery, Tsai said: “Frequency of annealing and heat control is the key to achieving thin titanium wire. Drawing titanium wire requires constant annealing. Drawing thin titanium wire may easily result in fracture due to the toughened internal structure of the metal during annealing. Heed should be paid to laser welding the joints of titanium wire at the gem-setting process to avoid damaging the gemstones. Polishing comes as the final stage. I pay a lot of attention to high-gloss polishing in most of my early works. Each piece takes an average of three to four hours to hand polish. This step is critical to enhancing the colours of the metal.”

 

In August 2020, Tsai and another designer Ru Syueh co-launched a collection dubbed Anthurium. Its Anthurium in Blue brooch is set with 0.4mm titanium wire. The tour de force took six months to craft from scratch to 928 sapphires, emeralds and yellow diamonds are interwoven. The 15.5cm long piece embodies the lightness of titanium with an astonishing weight of just 36.9g. After electrochemical machining treatment, the colours of titanium wire blends into the gemstones’ hues. The gemstones appear to be connected by a wire with an impeccable petal curve.

← Back