The prevailing trend of re-editions based on vintage models and retro inspirations in new timepiece introduction was all the rage at Baselworld 2019. While some watchmakers paid tribute to the essence of the glorious past, some others launched near-identical replicas of their hero models in the old days. Innovation, colours and environmental protection were strong alongside the heritage-inspired trend spotted at the Swiss fair.
Inspired by a legendary prototype developed in 1960s for a diver’s watch for the US Navy, Tudor’s Black Bay P01 adopts the winding crown at 4 o’clock and the prominent end-links of the 1960s model which prevent the bezel from turning unintentionally during a dive. The 42-mm stainless steel case remains watertight to 200 metres. The new model is powered by manufacture caliber MT5612 offering a 70-hour power reserve and a COSC certificate. The strap is a rubber base with ‘snowflake’ motif on the back, finished with a brown leather trip.
Paying tribute to the US Air Force’s iconic MA-1 flight jacket of 1958, the BR 03-92 MA-1 watch developed by Bell & Ross is considered to be the “purest” pilot watch by the brand. The 42-mm signature square case and large Arabic numerals is made of khaki-coloured ceramic. The new timepiece highlights the dark-khaki and orange colour scheme of the bomber jacket which is also reflected on the reversible calfskin leather trap – orange on one side and khaki on the other. Limited to 999 pieces, the BR 03-92 MA-1 watch is powered by the automatic BR-CAL.302 which offers a 38-hour power reserve.
The Zenith Oscillator, a silicon frame that functions as the balance wheel, hairspring and lever, was introduced in the Defy Lab in September 2017 with a limited edition of just 10 experimental timepieces. Zenith’s newly launched Defy Inventor turns the impressive Zenith Oscillator into commercial reality. The new watch is powered by caliber ZO 9100 offering an incredibly high frequency of 18Hz or 129,600vph, over four times faster than most of the watches. The 44-mm case is crafted in brushed titanium and the bezel is made of patented Aeronith, the world’s lightest aluminum composite.
Carl F Bucherer’s Heritage BiCompax Annual comes as a revived and enhanced version of its bi-compax chronograph from the 1950s. The new creation is fitted with an automatic CFB 1972 caliber movement with an extra annual calendar module and a 42-hour power reserve. The 41-mm case features a big date window at 12 o’clock and a small month display between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock. The sub-dials are for a small second index and the 30-minute counter. There are two variations of the BiCompax Annual. The stainless steel version has a panda-style dial in silver and black with a black rubber strap, while the two-tone model is stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold with a salmon-coloured dial. Each version is limited to 888 pieces.
A loyal re-edition of its Navitimer from the late 1950s, Breitling’s Navitimer 806 1959 Re-edition borrows its ancestor’s features including the plexiglass crystal, 94 beads on the rotating bezel, the 40.9-mm stainless steel case and the circular slide rule. The new movement Breitling has drawn on to power the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition is the caliber B09, a hand wound COSC-rated chronograph. The modern takes on the re-edition include a new movement caliber B09 with a power reserve of 70 hours, a hand wound COSC-certified chronograph, an increased water resistance to 30 metres and the use of Super-LumiNova instead of radium. It is available in a limited edition of 1,959 pieces.
TAG Heuer has expanded its Autavia family by launching seven new references. The name “Autavia” comes from the combination of “automobile” and “aviation”. The 42-mm rounded case incorporates the beveled lugs of the original models from the 1960s and the large winding crown, an element inspired by historical pilots’ watches. The bidirectional 60-minute bezel, another vintage feature, is made of either blue or black ceramic or stainless steel depending on the models. The hour, minute and seconds hands are coated in Super-LumiNova and the date appears discreetly in a window at 6 o’clock. Among the seven models, five have a stainless steel case and the others bronze. The new Autavia watches use the COSC-certified caliber 5 movement featuring newly developed a carbon-composite hairspring.
The ref 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar is the first Calatrava model of Patek Philippe with a stainless steel case. Besides showing the date in a window, the new timepiece also indicates the days of the week, the calendar week and the month. The new self-winding manufacture caliber 26-330 movement is created for the watch. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the refined architecture and finesse of the movement. Adding a vintage and poetic appeal on the new watch is its typography. The lettering is done by hand, making each one unique and slightly different from all the rest.
The newest diving watch from Oris marks the brand’s continuing efforts in environmental conservation. Based on the Aquis case shape and bracelet design, the Clean Ocean Limited Edition partners with Pacific Garbage Screening, an organisation developed technology to keep the world’s water clean by capturing plastic before it enters into the ocean. The new watch, with Super-LumiNova-filled indices and a date window at the 6 o’clock position, is water resistant to 300 metres. The gradient blue dial comes as a striking feature. The case-back showcases a medallion made from recycled plastic. The new diving watch is a numbered limited edition of 2,000 pieces.
Famed for his unconventional time-telling mechanical sculptures, Maximilian Büsser of Geneva-based MB&F launched the first ladies’ watch Legacy Machine FlyingT after 14 years of watchmaking. The 3D creation draws inspiration from everything he loves in the women of his life. A 60-second flying tourbillon is housed under a domed sapphire crystal. An elegant sub-dial with serpentine hands sit at 7 o’clock and on a 50-degree tilt intimately tells time only to the wearer. Energy comes from the 280-component automatic movement with 100 hours of power reserve. Legacy Machine FlyingT comes with three versions, including the one fully-set with baguette diamonds on the case and the dial plate.
The Octo Finissimo line from Bulgari has recently set a fifth world record with the world’s thinnest mechanical chronograph caliber for this time. The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic watch containing caliber BVL 318 which is just 3.3 mm thick. It offers a 55-hour power reserve and the local time can be adjusted by pushing the button set into the set at nine o’clock. The 42mm-wide and 6.9mm-thick ultra-slim case surrounds a sand-blasted titanium dial and has a transparent back.
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