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News & Highlight

News

  1. Q1 Gold Jewellery Demand Soft, Says WGC
  2. Jewellery Buying Groups Formed New Global Alliance
  3. Singapore to Host Jewellery & Gem World 2022
  4. ‘Wonder Woman’ Gal Gadot Premiered in Tiffany’s 2022 High Jewellery Collection
  5. Christie’s to Auction ‘The Light of Africa’ for $18M in June
  6. New Board of Directors were elected to Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey
  7. Oroarezzo back with Première Competition
  8. ‘De Beers Blue’ auctions US$57.5M at Sotheby’s
  9. CTF launches Mother’s Day collection
  10. Jewelers of America Announces The 2022 CASE Award Winners
  11. De Beers: Diamond Businesses Staying Cautious About Business Expectations
  12. Synthetic Alexandrite Pioneer David Patterson Dies at 89
  13. 205 CARAT FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS | 11 MAY 2022
  14. Rebecca Foerster Appointed As President of Hearts On Fire
  15. US Steps Up Sanctions Against Alrosa
  16. PGI Study Findings: Consumers Have Different Interpretations of Sustainability
  17. Irving Wong Appointed as Pandora’s General Manager For China
  18. Rolex’s 6 New Watches Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
  19. Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery: Heteractis Ring
  20. Will Russian Diamond Ban Help Foster Lab-Grown Diamond Business?
  21. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  22. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  23. JEWELLERY GENEVA Takes Place between 30 March and 3 April 2022
  24. Christie’s Presents 228 carat White Dimond
  25. Gold Bar Integrity Programme to be Implemented
  26. Press Release: BONHAMS ANNOUNCES ACQUISITION OF BRUUN RASMUSSEN AUCTIONEERS – DENMARK’S LEADING AUCT
  27. Early Spring Fashion for Natural Diamonds
  28. Jennifer Garner Shines in De Beers Jewellers at the Premiere in New York
  29. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, “Cartier Women’s Initiative Impact Report”
  30. American Gem Trade Association Announces Partnership with JCK Show Again
  31. Chow Tai Fook and Canada's Mountain Province Diamonds Sign Supply Agreement
  32. Registration Is Open for 2022 JCK Show
  33. Alrosa Caught Up in U.S. Sanctions
  34. Tawhid Abdullah Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
  35. The Largest Blue Diamond Appears at Sotheby’s Auction
  36. Price Rise for Nearly 90% Of Fancy Colour Last Year
  37. Dickson Yewn’s Collectibles Given for Sotheby’s Charity Auction
  38. De Beers Boosts Production
  39. Watches & Wonders Geneva To Be Held In Hybrid Format
  40. Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai to Debut February
  41. Hong Kong Losing its Dominance as the World's Largest Watch Market
  42. Gift Guide for CNY
  43. Press Release: Sotheby’s Announces New Appointments To Luxury Team In ASsia
  44. Georg Jensen Becomes a Certified Member of RJC
  45. 555.55-carat Black Dimond Unveiled at Sotheby’s Auction
  46. GIA Appoints Anna Martin as SVP for Institute, Industry Relations
  47. Alrosa Boosts Direct Sales of Fancy Diamonds to Investors
  48. CIBJO General Assembly postponed to March 17 and 18, 2022
  49. 7,525 Carat Emerald Discovered
  50. Karl Lagerfeld Jewellery Collections to Shine
  51. Diamonds Travel To The Space
  52. Vicenzaoro January postponed to March
  53. America’s Youngest Jeweller Starts Business via Instagram
  54. Concerns over conflict gold arise again
  55. The 1st International Gemstone & Diamond Trade Summit Wraps Up in Macao
  56. The Knot’s Study:Over 30% of Respondents Say Natural Diamond Unimportant
  57. Pantone’s 2022 Colour of the Year: Very Peri
  58. Phillips Jewellery Auctions Fetch over HK$181 Million
  59. The World’s First Pure Gold Castle of Magical Dreams by CHOW TAI FOOK
  60. Jewellery Sales Jumped 78% During the Thanksgiving Holiday
  61. Gem Auctions DMCC’s Debut Auction Successful
  62. Cartier’s Christmas Tree Lights Up the City with Love and Hope
  63. Rediscovering Lacloche in Hong Kong
  64. Blue diamonds to lead Christie’s HK autumn sale
  65. JMA show to stage next Thursday
  66. HK auction to help Cambodian kids
  67. Basel fair cancelled again
  68. HKDI show to continue in Dec
  69. Gemfields sells 7,500-carat emerald for good
  70. Sustainability is key to diamond purchases, a report says
  71. Christie’s Geneva jewellery sale fetches CHF53.7m
  72. Cibjo forms working group on fei cui standards
  73. Only Watch raises CHF30m for DMD research
Read More...


HIGHLIGHT

  1. US market unfolds changes and potential
  2. The queen of gems, the gem of queens
  3. Classics return

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  • Paraiba tourmaline, rubellite and diamond ring by Caroline C
  • Faceted gold sheen sapphire by Genuine Gems & Jewellery
  • Silver, gold and diamond cuff showcases rutilated quartz by Atelier Zobel.
  • Gold ring with a dendritic agate by Yael Sonia
  • Gold ring featuring three oval Padparadscha sapphires with diamonds by OMI Privé
  • Gold ring with malachite centre stone accented by diamonds by Moraglione
  • pink mystique earrings from k mita

Gems & trends

In today’s jewellery market, the fastest growing segments are young professionals, and they are looking for more than just traditional jewels. And, price seems secondary to the ‘story’ of the gem, which includes the social responsibility factor. 

In the not-too-distant past, coloured gemstone fine jewellery centred primarily on ‘the big three’− rubies, emeralds and sapphires. And, to an extent it still does. These stones remain highly coveted, with auction prices going through the roof for rare untreated sapphires from Kashmir and Myanmar; rare rubies from Myanmar; and emeralds from Colombia at the top of the pyramid. But, even for ‘the big three’, things are changing.

New sources

Over the last few years, the sources of gemstones have expanded, from rubies in Mozambique to sapphires in Madagascar to Paraiba tourmalines in Africa. This year, however, the buzz is all about emeralds from Ethiopia. While these stones were talked about last year, there were very few examples. This year, however, Ethiopian emeralds are more available, with attention focusing on the gem’s saturated green colour.

Among the dealers offering these emeralds is US-based Mayer & Watt. “Ethiopian emeralds are blowing people’s minds,” said owner Simon Watt, explaining that the gems are comparable, if not better, than the Colombian stones, but at half the price. Among the green gems he is selling are a 6.1-carat and a 5.8-carat faceted stones, with no oil treatment. “Some 30 to 40 percent of the production doesn’t need oil,” Watt smiled, clearly excited about the new stone.

Adding to the interest in these Ethiopian emeralds are the social responsibility and ethical sourcing factors. The mine is owned and operated by a tribe of 3,000 people. All the money goes back to the tribe. Proceeds are already building roads and other facilities, and plans are in the works to train local people to cut the gems. Everyone profits.

Ethiopia is also a fairly recent source of sapphires, primarily the blue varieties. Mining is carried out mostly by artisanal miners although some large-scale mining is also taking place. The nation’s government is working with international organisations for training and research with the objective of being able to tell the Ethiopian ‘gem story’ to the global industry to the benefit of its citizens. It’s definitely a story to watch.

Another gem attracting a lot of attention this year at the various trade shows − including filming by a TV crew from one of America’s largest TV shopping channels − is the Gold Sheen™ sapphire, whose name was recently trademarked by Thailand-based Genuine Gems & Jewellery. Although the company’s owner Tanzim Khan is just beginning to market this new species of sapphire, the word is quickly getting out. Global brands such as John Hardy, Cartier and David Yurman recently started using the unique gems along with a number of smaller designers. 

Exhibiting a colour range from gold to translucent blue and green, this unusual sapphire is found in only one location in a remote region of Kenya, and the mine is now depleted. “As soon as I saw the rough a few years ago, I knew that I had something special, so I purchased the entire mine’s production,” explained Khan. Laboratory reports all confirm that the gems are natural, unheated sapphire. 

Popular gems

The trendiest gems this year seem to be “morganite and aquamarine, since they are pastel, relatively inexpensive and look fantastic,” said Jeremy Chalchinsky of US-based gem dealer Color Source,adding “affordability definitely plays a huge role with millennial consumers.” Because of their value and availability in many colours, he explains that spinel and garnet (Mandarin orange and different shades of green) are the “rising stars” in the gem world. “For a long time, garnet was associated with dark red stones, but millennials are rediscovering their various beautiful colours, forging a new personality for the gem,” he said.  He notes that sapphires in multi-colours are also popular with jewellers who are creating the very trendy “rainbow” designs. 

Rethinking gems

The way coloured gems are being thought about is one of the biggest changes in the industry. While diamonds have long dominated the wedding world, we are seeing increasing numbers of brides opting for colour. The main gems in bridal jewels are sapphire, emerald and ruby, but other types such as tanzanite and morganite are enjoying increasing popularity, including a renewed interest in Padparadscha sapphire − called into attention by the royal engagement a few months ago.

There is also a growing awareness of some of the more uncommon gems, among them clinohumite, goshenite and sphene, as well as non-traditional jewellery gems such as dendritic agates, jasper, malachite, chrysocolla, fossils, petrified wood, meteorites and even fools gold (pyrite). While these gems often grace demi-fine jewels, they also fall into the fine category when accented with diamonds and other precious gems.

With the demand for lesser price points for sapphires, emeralds and rubies, astute designers are using slices of these gems, accenting them with smaller stones. For many consumers, inclusions apparent in slices are no longer a negative factor, but rather show off their naturalness, and are thus prized rather than disdained. It started with diamonds a decade or so ago, but now coloured gems are being sliced and diced to show off their intrinsic beauty. Sapphires and rubies that are highly included and nearly opaque are also popular additions to many jewellery wardrobes as are gems in matrix. 

Paraiba tourmaline is undoubtedly one of the most popular gemstones, and can probably be added to ‘the big three’ to make it ‘the big four’, considering its skyrocketing prices. While Paraiba is prized mostly for its bright neon-blue hue, it comes in a variety of other colours, ranging from green to pink to purple. It is mined in Africa and Brazil, although gems from the South American nation are the most coveted. US-based gem dealer and jewellery designer Caroline Chartouni, often called the Queen of Paraiba, notes that the blue gem is favoured by her clientele, both as loose gems and in the exquisite Paraiba jewellery that she sells under the Caroline C brand.

Because of the high prices, some jewellers have turned their attention to using Paraiba tourmaline in its matrix form. These slices offer a one-of-a-kind beauty, showcasing the gem in its natural state, with definite appeal to many customers. 

The types and colours of gems are only part of today’s rethink of nature’s beautiful creations. Social responsibility and ethical sourcing are worries for many customers, especially the millennial and centennial generations, who are more concerned with the integrity of the supply chain than with price. These young people also appreciate a good gem ‘story’, preferring to know that their purchase is either 

helping − or at least not harming − the miners, cutters and their communities. 

 

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