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News

  1. Q1 Gold Jewellery Demand Soft, Says WGC
  2. Jewellery Buying Groups Formed New Global Alliance
  3. Singapore to Host Jewellery & Gem World 2022
  4. ‘Wonder Woman’ Gal Gadot Premiered in Tiffany’s 2022 High Jewellery Collection
  5. Christie’s to Auction ‘The Light of Africa’ for $18M in June
  6. New Board of Directors were elected to Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey
  7. Oroarezzo back with Première Competition
  8. ‘De Beers Blue’ auctions US$57.5M at Sotheby’s
  9. CTF launches Mother’s Day collection
  10. Jewelers of America Announces The 2022 CASE Award Winners
  11. De Beers: Diamond Businesses Staying Cautious About Business Expectations
  12. Synthetic Alexandrite Pioneer David Patterson Dies at 89
  13. 205 CARAT FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS | 11 MAY 2022
  14. Rebecca Foerster Appointed As President of Hearts On Fire
  15. US Steps Up Sanctions Against Alrosa
  16. PGI Study Findings: Consumers Have Different Interpretations of Sustainability
  17. Irving Wong Appointed as Pandora’s General Manager For China
  18. Rolex’s 6 New Watches Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
  19. Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery: Heteractis Ring
  20. Will Russian Diamond Ban Help Foster Lab-Grown Diamond Business?
  21. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  22. Press Release: Ariana DeBose, Hunter Schafer and Zoey Deutch Shine in De Beers Jewellers at the Vani
  23. JEWELLERY GENEVA Takes Place between 30 March and 3 April 2022
  24. Christie’s Presents 228 carat White Dimond
  25. Gold Bar Integrity Programme to be Implemented
  26. Press Release: BONHAMS ANNOUNCES ACQUISITION OF BRUUN RASMUSSEN AUCTIONEERS – DENMARK’S LEADING AUCT
  27. Early Spring Fashion for Natural Diamonds
  28. Jennifer Garner Shines in De Beers Jewellers at the Premiere in New York
  29. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, “Cartier Women’s Initiative Impact Report”
  30. American Gem Trade Association Announces Partnership with JCK Show Again
  31. Chow Tai Fook and Canada's Mountain Province Diamonds Sign Supply Agreement
  32. Registration Is Open for 2022 JCK Show
  33. Alrosa Caught Up in U.S. Sanctions
  34. Tawhid Abdullah Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
  35. The Largest Blue Diamond Appears at Sotheby’s Auction
  36. Price Rise for Nearly 90% Of Fancy Colour Last Year
  37. Dickson Yewn’s Collectibles Given for Sotheby’s Charity Auction
  38. De Beers Boosts Production
  39. Watches & Wonders Geneva To Be Held In Hybrid Format
  40. Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai to Debut February
  41. Hong Kong Losing its Dominance as the World's Largest Watch Market
  42. Gift Guide for CNY
  43. Press Release: Sotheby’s Announces New Appointments To Luxury Team In ASsia
  44. Georg Jensen Becomes a Certified Member of RJC
  45. 555.55-carat Black Dimond Unveiled at Sotheby’s Auction
  46. GIA Appoints Anna Martin as SVP for Institute, Industry Relations
  47. Alrosa Boosts Direct Sales of Fancy Diamonds to Investors
  48. CIBJO General Assembly postponed to March 17 and 18, 2022
  49. 7,525 Carat Emerald Discovered
  50. Karl Lagerfeld Jewellery Collections to Shine
  51. Diamonds Travel To The Space
  52. Vicenzaoro January postponed to March
  53. America’s Youngest Jeweller Starts Business via Instagram
  54. Concerns over conflict gold arise again
  55. The 1st International Gemstone & Diamond Trade Summit Wraps Up in Macao
  56. The Knot’s Study:Over 30% of Respondents Say Natural Diamond Unimportant
  57. Pantone’s 2022 Colour of the Year: Very Peri
  58. Phillips Jewellery Auctions Fetch over HK$181 Million
  59. The World’s First Pure Gold Castle of Magical Dreams by CHOW TAI FOOK
  60. Jewellery Sales Jumped 78% During the Thanksgiving Holiday
  61. Gem Auctions DMCC’s Debut Auction Successful
  62. Cartier’s Christmas Tree Lights Up the City with Love and Hope
  63. Rediscovering Lacloche in Hong Kong
  64. Blue diamonds to lead Christie’s HK autumn sale
  65. JMA show to stage next Thursday
  66. HK auction to help Cambodian kids
  67. Basel fair cancelled again
  68. HKDI show to continue in Dec
  69. Gemfields sells 7,500-carat emerald for good
  70. Sustainability is key to diamond purchases, a report says
  71. Christie’s Geneva jewellery sale fetches CHF53.7m
  72. Cibjo forms working group on fei cui standards
  73. Only Watch raises CHF30m for DMD research
Read More...


HIGHLIGHT

  1. US market unfolds changes and potential
  2. The queen of gems, the gem of queens
  3. Classics return

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  • Pilz AY, founder of Pilz Schmuck
  • Window Grille necklace
  • Electronic Component pendant earrings
  • Electronic Component earrings with DIP switch
  • Travel of Light brooch
  • Travel of Light necklace
  • Optical Fibre brooch
  • Frozen Memory necklace features an organic rock crystal

Wearable art that lasts

November 2021

 

Loupe designers-in-residence series Loupe

 

A silver ring embedded with a circuit board in vibrant colours has changed Pilz Ay’s perception of jewellery. The unorthodox accessory she found in a flea market in Milan has enlightened her to introduce contemporary jewellery to express herself and engage people with storytelling designs that inspire and last.

An eccentric option in traditional jewellery markets where lavish gem-set jewels prevail, contemporary jewellery liberates itself from the obduracy of precious gemstones and metals. It takes a flexible approach to the choice of materials, giving the designer more possibilities to conceptualise ideas and deliver the message.

Pilz Ay started her own brand Pilz Schmuck in 2005 with the first collection paying tribute to the amazing world of electronics. Her fondness for small electronic parts seems to be inborn. “When I was young, I used to pay frequent visits to stores selling hardware, electronic and machine parts. The bright colours and unusual shapes of the small objects were just fascinating. And then I started collecting them,” the Hong Kong designer said.

Jewellery inspired by her favourite collectables was a mere concept until she met the brother of a friend of hers. “He was a self-taught craftsman who worked as an illustrator at a jewellery firm. We soon became business partners and developed our own designs.” She went solo and established Pilz Schmuck later on.

To preserve the essence and beauty of the electronic parts, she keeps them in their original form as much as possible by setting them in sterling silver with minimal design to underline the uniqueness of the centrepiece. For the Electronic Component collection, the designer has turned e-waste into delightful jewellery that connects with people again with an upcycled role.

Some pieces from the collection feature a dual in-line package swich which enhances interaction with the wearers. “Listening to the monotoned clicking sound of the switch is healing. It provides the wearer with a temporary getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life,” Ay said.

Another line of silver jewellery with LEDs comes as a perfect example of the designer’s passion for geometric and architectural forms, and her experimental spirit. As for the Travel of Light necklace, a simple circular chord with a cube or disc with an LED element is all it takes to evince the quality of having less is more.

Always in search of more significance for her designs, Pilz AY has created the Window Grille collection, some with LEDs, inspired by the window grilles of old tenement buildings in Hong Kong. “Whenever there are people behind the window grilles, the light is always on,” the designer explains the relationship between the two elements. It reminds us of the good old days when people were packed in a tiny yet cosy and warm flat. It also advocates the co-existence of old and new buildings in the city.

Fine jewellery is more for celebration and meant for passing down from generation to generation. When it comes to contemporary jewellery, however, it allows us to express our emotions in a much relaxing and personal way.

“Contemporary jewellery is a mobile sculpture and wearable art connecting the designer with the wearers and the environment. It is worn casually, alone or stacked, regardless of outfits and emotion,” she said.

The organic rock crystal rough set in the Frozen Memory collection fully exemplifies the designer’s aesthetic in instinctive rawness.

Observation is key to keeping her creative vibe alive. “While walking or sitting, I am always on the look out for interesting things. I read and travel a lot. And I spend time with exhibitions and shows of different nature,” said she.

Her constant quest for new knowledge and inspirations had motivated her to enrol at Loupe’s design residency programme started July 2020 which brought her to a whole new world of craftsmanship and goldsmithing. Also memorable for her was the rewarding experience gained from hosting workshops for the public.

“Knowing is one thing; teaching is another. We were required to hold six jewellery-making workshops for the public. Teaching was a totally new area for me. Although it came as a huge challenge, I treasured the opportunity a lot. Besides ensuring the participants finished the task in four hours, I deliberately taught them a bit more about craftsmanship in a hope to lift their horizons towards a deeper understanding and appreciation of contemporary jewellery.”

A keen advocate of contemporary jewellery, Pilz AY is a regular of local and overseas jewellery and wearable art expositions and events, including a solo exhibition, and several touring shows in Hong Kong, Australia, Spain and Taiwan.

Completing the jewellery and metalwork course with Sheffield Hallam University tops her agenda. Looking ahead, she aspires to enhance the digital presence of Pilz Schmuck while securing more physical interaction opportunities with customers. (Photo courtesy: Pilz Schmuck)

 

         

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