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  • Precious M 080

3D metal printing for custom jewellery design

Since its earliest stage of development, 3D printing has come a long way in realising designers’ wildest dreams. Last year, British jewellery making supplies provider Cooksongold and industrial 3D printing system provider EOS partnered to launch Precious M 080 that could directly print with precious metals.

Precious M 080 utilises a direct metal laser sintering (DMLS) system that selectively melts and fuses fine metal powder layer by layer together to create the required structures. Supporting five types of precious metals including 950 platinum, 925 silver, 18-karat rose, yellow and white gold, this equipment is capable of producing complex shapes, freeform surfaces, hollow sections and articulating parts such as movable straps. Users can also create encaged designs by pausing the printing process, inserting objects such as gemstones or pearls into the semi-finished product and then resuming printing. The printing material can also be changed during the printing process to produce multi-material jewellery.

The laser sintering is carried out by layers. After the sintering of one layer is finished, fresh metal powder will be spread across the working surface for the sintering of the next layer. To print a ring with a height of 25 mm, it requires about 1.8 kg of metal powder. To reduce loss, a protective cap that follows the laser operation prevents metal powder from flying everywhere. Together with the collection cartridge it forms an effective recycling system. The digital touch-screen clearly displays the process of the printing and time left before finishing.

The machine allows jewellers to skip traditional steps such as 3D wax/resin printing, mould making and casting to shorten production lead time. Only polishing is needed after printing. As labour costs such as insurance and social security expenses rise in China and other countries, 3D printing technology could help manufacturers handle orders with minimum manpower. Other advantages of the model include high detail resolution, high stability, safe operation, even colouration, high density and a high degree of freedom in design.

According to Yuen Kee Ho, the distribution agent of Precious M 080 in Asia Pacific, the price of the machine is roughly 2.2 million yuan for shipping to Hong Kong, and is about 2.8 million yuan for shipping to mainland China. Apart from jewellery companies, target clients of this model also include schools. Yuen Kee Ho said despite the hefty price tag, they are discussing with some of the leading jewellery brands in the region who have shown interest in developing custom jewellery production.

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