It is incontrovertibly that Baselworld 2018 was the smallest and shortest edition of the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair in recent years. Our reporter stayed all through the show period interviewing renowned European jewellery exhibitors who are famed for innovation and creativity. Over the first few days quite a number of exhibitors had frowned upon the thin traffic and gloomy atmosphere. Nevertheless, smiling faces with a hint of approval were met when the show was drawing to a close.
Ended on 27 March, the 2018 show ran for only six days (from the normal eight-day schedule) with half as many exhibitors, around 650 compared to 1,300 in 2017. The exhibition space was reduced by one-third. Industry leaders including Mikimoto, Boucheron, Autore, Dior and Hermès had quitted.
Despite the solitary isles across the jewellery halls, the show management MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd said on 24 March that the first two days recorded an eight-percent increase in the number of professional visitors compared to 2017. “Numerous exhibitors likewise expressed strong satisfaction with the start of Baselworld and confirm first positive results,” said the official statement.
We sent out a post-show questionnaire to those we had interviewed during the show. A high percentage of them expressed satisfaction towards their performance in general, among them about half even said “very satisfied”.
In terms of visitor traffic, a majority said it was about the same as last year. Nearly 80 percent of the respondents said positive and enthusiastic buying sentiments were observed.
As for whether they will return to the 2019 edition, the majority of them gave an affirmative remark, including most of the following brands.
Positive remarks
Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Anna Maria Cammilli from Italy fared very well at the show. Company CEO Riccardo Renai told us that most of their visitors were from Europe which is a growing region for them despite the lacklustre domestic market. Inspired by Japanese design, the anniversary collection includes a pendant, earrings and a ring with stylised flowers in a harmonious way. The new ‘Dune Precious’ under the Dune collection was well-received at the fair, he said. To tap the millennial market, the brand is working to get closer to the new consumers via website, e-commerce, social media and online marketing.
“Baselworld continues to be an important event for our brand and international development,” said Michel Normann, COO of Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen. “This year the quality traffic seemed to be stronger than precious years.” Unika Snake rings set with different gemstones ranging from US$10,800 to $28,000 were among the bestsellers. Normann attributes the success to innovation, design skills, and consistent branding concept. Besides Europe, the Danish brand has recorded market growth in Middle East, Asia and the United States. “The interest and acknowledgements received from Baselworld have shown a promising 2018-19,” Normann added.
Antwerp-based Hulchi Belluni felt satisfied with the fair as well. “Our customers were enthusiastic about the new collections. Everybody felt immediately in love with the lace structure of the Dentelle collection and the powerful femininity of the Cubini collection,” said Axelle Knapen of the Belgian brand. “The buying sentiment of our customers did not change. We see the future as shiny as our diamonds. We are happy to announce that we will participate in Baselworld 2019.”
It was the best Basel fair for another Belgian brand Bigli since it joined the fair five years ago. Despite the unsatisfactory location, worldwide visitors went looking for them. According to marketing representative Annick Tuytens of the company, the Mini Sweety collection was a big hit. Stacking rings from the collection are available from 1,075 euros each. “Benelux is our home market with some growth in German. We are growing a lot and very positive about the outlook for 2018-19.”
According to Yana Nesper of Pforzheim-based pearl jeweller Heinz Nesper, Baselworld 2018 exceeded their expectations. “We had much higher traffic compared to previous years with visitors mostly from Middle East, Europe and South America,” she said. Products at US$500 to $1,500 went particularly well. “Our sales are quite stable, although the portfolio of our customers is changing. We have made a shift towards more online sales and more international customers. Those who are flexible and make use of chances and possibilities will succeed. Communications and storytelling are getting more important,” she added.
Charriol from Switzerland recorded similar traffic as last year. “Almost all of our agents came visit us. Visitors were mainly from the States, Middle East, Asia and Europe, with much less from mainland China,” said Alice So, business manager of Philippe Charriol (Far East). The brand launched two new watch series St Tropez Slim and Marie Olga together with 13 new jewellery collections at the show, with the entry price levels of US$990-$1,390 at retail being the bestsellers. She sees positive growth this year thanks to the well-received new collections.
“We were very satisfied with the positive feedback received from our customers and the press. The level of business conducted was quite good. We were busier than last edition as the show was two days shorter,” said Alan Hakimian, managing director of London-based pearl jewellery brand Yoko London. At the fair the brand introduced The Royal wedding collection inspired by the upcoming British royal wedding. South Sea pearl and diamond earrings at US$1,000 to $5,000 were the bestselling items. Hakimian said the buying mood was fairly positive although many buyers were still cautious. At present the Middle East market is going well for the brand, while UK and the States are improving. “China is very important for us. We anticipate India will become much more important in the next few years. The global outlook for 2018-19 will be brighter, though it will continue to be challenging,” he added.
The Swiss fair was “another fantastic Baselworld” for Vicenza-based Fope famed for its patented Flex’it collections. “We performed ever better than last edition. Everybody came as agreed,” said marketing manager Valentina Bertoldo. Both the Eka Tiny and Prima lines from around US$1,000 wholesale were among the sought-after styles. Bertoldo believes that the Basel fair still represents the best opportunity for the brand to meet global customers. “Last year we grew in every market with double-digit growth in UK, Germany and the States. We are doing well in Italy despite the slow domestic economy,” she said. Currently, the brand is focusing on the European market which is very positive, with some business activities in mainland China.
2019 confirmed
The long-awaited Q&A session after the speech by the show management at the press conference was unexpectedly called off. To address the wide speculations over the uncertain future of the show, the management organised an ad-hoc press conference on the last day of the show.
At the conference, Sylvie Ritter, managing director of Baselworld, confirmed that another six-day show will be held next year, 21-26 March 2019, with all leading brands committed to participating, for instance, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel, etc.
According to René Kamm, MCH Group CEO, the next show will keep the similar number of exhibitors which is “optimal”. More small-to-medium companies will be recruited. When asked the outlook for the show, Kamm said: “Planning for 12 months is a challenge.” He added that more details of the next Basel fair will be ready in autumn this year.
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